The replica Rolex Submariner 16613 is a copy of the two-tone Submariner that Rolex made from 1988 to 2009, known as the "Bluesy" when it came with a blue dial and blue bezel insert. A copy that looks right nails four details: the 40mm case profile, the yellow gold tone on the bracelet center links, the blue of the dial and insert, and the crown guards.

This guide covers what the real 16613 is, how to judge a replica, what each price tier buys, and the flaws that give a fake away.

What was the Rolex Submariner 16613?

The 16613 replaced the 16803 in 1988 and ran until 2009, when Rolex moved to the 116613. It is the steel-and-gold Submariner Date, so the case is steel and the bezel, crown, and bracelet center links are 18k yellow gold. Rolex sold it with a blue dial (the "Bluesy"), a black dial, or a Serti dial set with diamonds and sapphires.

• Case: 40mm steel, with drilled lugs on older examples
• Bezel: aluminum insert, blue or black
• Dial: blue sunburst, black, or Serti
• Bracelet: Oyster with 18k gold center links
• Movement: caliber 3135, quickset date, 28,800 vph
• Crystal: sapphire with a 2.5x cyclops over the date
• Water resistance: rated to 300m when new

What should you check on a replica 16613?

Judge a replica on the parts people see first. Case shape, gold color, and dial shade matter more than the movement inside, because a bad gold tone stands out from across a table.

Case and crown guards

The 16613 uses the slim case Rolex built for decades. Crown guards should taper into the case with a soft curve, not sit as two blocks. Look at the lugs from the side: they should be thin, with drilled holes on the older style.

Gold tone and plating

Cheap copies use plating that reads orange, green, or pale. A good replica uses a warm yellow that sits between the steel and the blue insert without looking painted on. Thicker plating lasts longer, but it still wears at the clasp and crown after months of daily use.

Dial, hands, and bezel insert

The blue should shift with the light the way a sunburst finish does, not stay flat. Check the date font and the date window position, since a crooked or oversized date is the fastest tell. The insert should have clean font, a pip at 12 that lines up with the triangle, and a finish that looks anodized rather than printed on plastic.

Bracelet and clasp

End links should sit tight against the case with no gaps or wobble. Center links on the 16613 are gold and the outer links are steel, matching the case. Open the clasp and check that the stamping is deep and that the safety lock snaps shut.

Movement

Most replicas at this reference use one of three movements: a 2813, an ETA 2824 or 2836 clone, or a 3135 clone. The 3135 clone gives the correct crown position and date change feel, and it costs more. All three keep time well enough for daily wear; the difference shows in winding smoothness and how long the movement lasts.

How much does a replica Submariner 16613 cost?

Replica prices group into three tiers, and the gap between them sits in the case, the plating, and the movement.

• Budget (under $100): plated base metal, flat blue dial, loose bracelet, 2813 movement.
• Mid tier ($150 to $300): 316L steel case, better gold tone, sapphire crystal, ETA clone movement.
• Top tier ($400 and up): 904L or 316L steel, thicker gold wrap, sharp crown guards, 3135 clone, tight end links.

Prices move with supply and with the factory that builds the watch, so treat these as rough groups rather than fixed numbers. A mid-tier watch with a good dial often looks better on the wrist than a top-tier watch with a dull gold tone.

16613 vs 116613: what changed?

Rolex replaced the 16613 with the 116613 in 2009, and the two look different on the wrist. If you want the older look, buy a 16613 replica; if you want the modern one, buy a 116613 copy.

• Bezel: aluminum insert on the 16613, ceramic on the 116613.
• Case: slim lugs and a thinner profile on the 16613, a chunky "super case" on the 116613.
• Bracelet: hollow gold center links on the 16613, solid gold center links on the 116613.
• Dial: sunburst blue on the 16613, a deeper blue with gold print on the 116613.

Replica makers copy the 116613 more often because the ceramic bezel hides small flaws. A 16613 replica is harder to get right, which is why the aluminum insert and the slim case matter so much.

What gives a replica 16613 away?

• Orange or green gold tone next to steel.
• Fat or square crown guards.
• Cyclops with low magnification or a milky edge.
• Wrong date font, or a date that sits off center.
• Gaps between the end links and the case.
• Bezel font that is too bold, with a pip that misses the triangle.
• A case back that sits too high off the wrist.

Most of these show up in photos, so ask for clear shots from the side and from 12 o'clock before you pay.

Frequently asked questions

Does a replica 16613 use real gold?

No. Replicas use gold plating, gold wrap, or PVD on the bezel, crown, and center links. Real 18k parts would push the price past what anyone pays for a copy.

Is a replica 16613 water resistant?

Some are rated to 100m, but treat that rating as a claim, not a promise. Have a watchmaker pressure test it before you swim, and keep a cheap copy away from salt water.

What movement is inside a replica 16613?

Common choices are the 2813, an ETA 2824 or 2836 clone, and a 3135 clone. The 2813 is the cheapest, the ETA clone sits in the middle, and the 3135 clone comes closest to the real thing.

Which replica 16613 should I buy first?

Buy the best case and dial you can afford, then worry about the movement. A sharp case with a correct blue dial reads as the real watch from a normal distance; a perfect movement inside a wrong case does not.