Answer

The Clé de Cartier is an 18k yellow gold watch Cartier released in 2015. The word "clé" is French for key. The crown is shaped like a winding key. Replica versions copy the case shape and the crown shape. They do not use 18k gold. Most use a steel or brass base with gold plating or PVD coating. The genuine 40mm yellow gold model runs Cartier caliber 1847 MC, an automatic movement with a 42-hour power reserve.

Specs of the 18k yellow gold model

  • Case: 18k yellow gold, 35mm or 40mm. The 40mm case is about 11.8mm thick.
  • Movement: Cartier caliber 1847 MC, automatic, 28,800 vibrations per hour, 23 jewels, 42-hour power reserve.
  • Water resistance: 30m on the gold models with a leather strap.
  • Dial: silvered opaline, Roman numerals, sword-shaped hands, date window at 3 o'clock.
  • Crown: key-shaped, set with a sapphire cabochon.
  • Strap: alligator leather with an 18k gold folding clasp.
  • Marks: "750" and the Swiss precious metal stamp on the case.

How replicas differ

  • Case metal: 316L steel or brass with plating. Plating thickness on mid-tier copies runs 3 to 5 microns. It wears at the crown, lugs, and clasp.
  • Weight: a plated steel case weighs less than solid 18k gold of the same size.
  • Movement: Miyota 9015, Seagull ST2130, or a quartz unit. Casebacks often carry an "1847 MC" engraving that does not match the movement inside.
  • Crystal: sapphire on the better copies, mineral glass on cheap ones.
  • Crown: the key shape is the hard part. Copies may not turn, may sit proud of the case, or use a cabochon of the wrong color and size.
  • Dial print: Roman numeral weight, spacing, and the "CARTIER" script vary. "SWISS MADE" sits at 6 o'clock.
  • Marks: real cases carry 750 and the Swiss stamp. Copies carry no mark or a false one.

Checks before you buy

  1. Turn the crown. It should feel smooth and sit flush with the case.
  2. Compare dial photos against the genuine reference.
  3. Look at the date font and the window edge.
  4. Ask for photos of the caseback and the movement.
  5. Check the plating color against 18k yellow gold, which reads warmer than most plating.
  6. Treat any water resistance claim as unverified. Do not swim with the watch.
  7. Confirm strap and clasp material. Plating on a clasp rubs off first.

Legal and ownership notes

18 U.S.C. § 2320 covers trafficking in counterfeit goods and carries fines and prison terms. US Customs can seize shipments. Cartier does not service replicas. An independent watchmaker can. Resale value on a replica is close to zero. Spare parts for the plating and the crown are not stocked by any official channel.