Short Answer
A replica Cartier Tank Must in the 28 mm size is a copy of the small steel Tank Must. Cartier's own product page for the small model reads 29.5 mm wide by 22 mm tall. Many replica sellers print 28 mm instead. Copy prices run from $40 to $300. The genuine watch uses a quartz movement, so the movement type in a copy matches the original. Case finish, crystal, and the crown cabochon are the parts that differ most.
Genuine Tank Must Small: Key Numbers
- Case: stainless steel, 29.5 mm by 22 mm, thickness near 6.6 mm
- Movement: quartz, battery life rated at 8 years
- Crystal: sapphire
- Crown: steel with a blue spinel cabochon
- Water resistance: 30 m
- Strap: calfskin leather or steel bracelet
- US list price: about $3,300 for the steel-on-strap model
Cartier relaunched the Tank Must line in 2021. The small steel model sits at the bottom of the Tank price range.
Why the 28 mm Label Exists
Replica listings use case width, but not the same measuring points. Some sellers measure the case without the crown and round down. Others measure at a mid-case point. A case that Cartier calls 29.5 mm can read as 28 mm or 29 mm on a caliper, based on where the jaws sit. Ask a seller for two numbers: case width with the crown, and case width without it. A reply with one number means the listing is generic.
Parts That Differ From the Original
- Movement: most copies use Japanese quartz or Chinese quartz. A few use Swiss quartz.
- Crystal: mineral glass on low tiers, sapphire on high tiers.
- Cabochon: blue glass or synthetic spinel. Cartier uses a blue spinel.
- Dial: roman numerals, the hidden Cartier signature inside the VII numeral, and a railroad minute track. Print edges vary.
- Hands: blued steel shape. Copies use painted steel or heat-blued steel.
- Caseback: engraving depth and font.
- Strap: grained calfskin vs. smooth leather. Stitch count and buckle shape differ.
Price Tiers
- Under $60: mineral glass, base quartz, dial print with soft edges, glued cabochon.
- $80 to $150: better case polish, sapphire on some listings, closer dial print.
- $180 to $300: Swiss quartz or high grade quartz, sapphire, solid caseback screws, better strap.
No tier matches the genuine watch in case finishing. Budget for a strap change on any tier below $150.
What to Check Before Buying
- Ask for a dial photo at 2x zoom. Look at numeral edges and the minute track.
- Ask for the caseback. Check screw heads and engraving depth.
- Ask for a side photo. Copy thickness runs 7 mm to 8 mm. Genuine is near 6.6 mm.
- Ask about the crown. A flat blue dot is not a cabochon.
- Ask for the movement name. "Quartz" alone says nothing.
Legal Note for US Buyers
US law covers counterfeit goods under 18 U.S.C. 2320. The statute targets trafficking, which includes sale and distribution. A first offense carries up to 10 years in prison and a $2 million fine for an individual. Customs and Border Protection can seize a shipment. Personal possession is not the same charge as trafficking, but the item can be destroyed at import.
FAQ
Is the replica Tank Must quartz or automatic?
Quartz. The genuine small Tank Must is quartz, so a battery copy matches the original in this one respect.
Does 28 mm match the genuine case?
No. Cartier lists 29.5 mm by 22 mm for the small model. The 28 mm figure comes from seller listings.
What is the most visible tell?
The crystal and the dial print. Mineral glass shows more reflection and scratches sooner. Soft numeral edges show at arm's length.