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A replica Ballon Bleu two tone is a copy of the Cartier Ballon Bleu de Cartier in steel and gold. Cartier released the line in 2007. The two tone version pairs a stainless steel case and bracelet with solid 18k yellow or rose gold on the bezel and center links. Replicas copy the shape. They do not copy the materials. A copy uses gold plating or PVD coating over steel, plus a third party movement. Copy prices run about USD 120 to USD 900. Genuine two tone models list between about USD 7,500 and USD 12,000, based on size and year.

Sizes and case shape

Cartier makes the Ballon Bleu in 28, 33, 36, 37, 40, 42, and 43 mm cases. Two tone covers the 28, 33, 36, and 42 mm models. The 33 mm and 36 mm sell in the largest numbers, so copies of those two sizes are the most common. Measure the case across the back, not the bezel. A 33 mm case measures about 33 mm across. Some sellers list a 33 mm watch as 36 mm.

Crown and cabochon

The Ballon Bleu crown sits under a curved guard at 3 o'clock. A blue cabochon is set into the guard. Cartier uses a synthetic blue spinel. Replicas use glass, plastic, or a low grade synthetic stone. Spinel has a deep even color. Glass shows bubbles under a loupe.

Movements

Genuine 33 mm two tone models use Cartier caliber 076, an automatic built on an ETA ebauche. The 36 mm and 42 mm use caliber 049. Replicas use one of four movement types: a quartz module, a Miyota or Seiko automatic, a Chinese clone of an ETA 2824 or 2892, or a claimed Swiss ETA. A claim of a Swiss ETA in a watch under USD 400 does not hold. Look at the rotor engraving and the beat rate. A 28,800 vph movement sweeps at 8 beats per second. A 21,600 vph movement sweeps at 6.

Gold, plating, and weight

Genuine two tone links are solid 18k gold. Plating on a copy runs about 3 to 5 microns. That layer wears through at the clasp, the crown, and the link edges. PVD coating holds longer than electroplating but looks darker. A genuine two tone bracelet weighs more than a plated copy of the same size, because gold is denser than steel. Ask for the weight in grams.

Crystal, dial, caseback

Cartier uses sapphire crystal. Copies use mineral glass or, on better builds, sapphire. Mineral glass scratches. Dial printing on copies shows thick or uneven text at 12 and 6. A genuine caseback carries a serial, a reference number, and a Swiss Made stamp. Copies often reuse one serial across a batch.

What to check before buying

  • Movement type and stated beat rate.
  • Plating thickness and method.
  • Weight in grams.
  • Case size measured across the back.
  • Crystal material.
  • Return policy and payment method.

Legal position in the United States

US Customs and Border Protection seizes counterfeit goods at import. Selling or trafficking counterfeits carries civil liability under the Lanham Act and can carry criminal penalties. Personal possession is not a federal crime in most cases. Import and resale are. Cartier does not service replicas. Resale value is near zero.