Answer: in the Cartier Ballon Bleu line, "small" means a 33 mm case. Cartier also sells a 28 mm extra-small, a 36 mm medium, and a 42 mm large. A replica listed as "small" is often a 33 mm build, but some sellers ship a 28 mm case under the same word. Measure the case width first.
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Case sizes in the Ballon Bleu line
- 28 mm: extra-small. Quartz movement only in the genuine line.
- 33 mm: small. Sold with quartz or automatic movement.
- 36 mm: medium. Automatic.
- 42 mm: large. Automatic, date window at 3.
The 33 mm case is about 9.9 mm thick. The crown sits at 3 o'clock inside a curved guard cut into the case. A blue cabochon caps the crown. The domed sapphire crystal covers a dial with no bezel ring.
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Movement
The genuine 33 mm automatic runs Cartier caliber 076. That is an ETA 2892 base, 25 jewels, 38 hours of power reserve. Replicas use three families of movement: quartz, Chinese automatic, and Japanese automatic such as the Miyota 9015.
Tell them apart by the seconds hand. Quartz ticks once per second. The 076 sweeps at 28,800 vibrations per hour, which is 8 ticks per second. A Chinese automatic at 21,600 vph gives 6 ticks per second and a softer sweep. Count the hand for 10 seconds. 80 ticks means 8 per second.
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Case, dial, and cabochon
Steel replicas use 316L. Genuine steel cases use 316L too, so steel grade is a weak test on this model. Plating is a better one. Plated replicas run 3 to 5 microns of gold. Genuine gold cases are solid 18k, not plated.
The cabochon on the genuine crown is blue sapphire. Most replicas use blue spinel or glass. Spinel looks close in color. It scratches with a steel pin. Sapphire does not.
The dial has a flinque pattern: concentric guilloche rings cut into metal. Genuine dials are stamped then lacquered. Cheaper replicas print the pattern flat, so it reads like a sticker at an angle.
Checks that settle most questions
- Measure the case width at 3 and 9 with calipers.
- Look at the dial at a 45 degree angle. Real guilloche changes depth with light.
- Check the caseback engraving depth and font weight.
- Weigh the watch and compare to a published spec for that reference.
- Confirm the lug width. The 33 mm model takes a narrower strap than the 36 mm.
Legal note
Import of counterfeit watches into the United States is illegal under 19 U.S.C. 1526. CBP can seize the shipment and assess penalties. Sale of counterfeit goods can bring civil liability. Rules differ by country.