The 2020 Pasha de Cartier lives or dies on three details: the round case with its four Vendome lugs, the screw-down crown cap on its short chain, and the dial with Arabic numerals at 3, 6, 9, and 12. Judge a first copy on those before you look at anything else. A flat crown cap, lugs that sit like blocks welded to the case, or numerals printed too heavy will read as a copy from across a table, while a clean case and a working cap will pass at normal distance even if the movement inside is a basic automatic. Cartier relaunched the line in 2020 in 35mm and 41mm, so settle your size first, then compare like with like.
What to look for
Case and lugs
The Vendome lug should flow out of the case band as one piece, with a polished top face and a flank that meet on a defined line. Run a fingernail along the join. A sharp edge means the case was milled. A soft, rounded smear means it was cast and buffed by hand.
Crown cap and chain
On the real watch the cap screws down over the crown and hangs from a chain fixed to a lug. Ask the seller whether the cap threads. On budget copies the cap is a decorative disc and the chain is molded in one piece with it. Better copies use a threaded cap that turns a few turns and an articulated chain with visible links.
Cabochon
The blue stone in the cap should sit in a metal bezel with fine beads or claws. Look for glue squeeze-out around the rim and for a flat, dull disc, which points to glass or plastic rather than a synthetic spinel or sapphire.
Dial
Check the numerals: even weight, sharp corners, no ink bleed into the dial surface. The minute track should be a crisp rail. Hands should be the sword shape with a clean polish. Confirm where the date window sits against the reference you are matching, since the line has used more than one position over the years.
Bracelet and clasp
Solid links, screw bars, and a clasp with crisp engraving. A bracelet that rattles and flexes in the hand is hollow. Check that the end links meet the case without a gap.
Movement and crystal
Ask what is inside. Japanese automatic movements show up in mid-tier copies and give a smooth sweep. Quartz is normal on the 30mm size. Sapphire crystal with inner anti-reflective coating sits at the top tier. Mineral glass is the budget tier.
Parameter bands
- Case size: 35mm and 41mm are the two 2020 sizes you will see copied most. 30mm exists as a quartz model.
- Case thickness: 9mm to 12mm. Past 12mm on a 35mm case the watch sits wrong on the wrist.
- Weight on a full bracelet: about 120g to 160g for a 41mm in stainless steel. Under 100g points to hollow links.
- Case material: 316L stainless steel. Plated brass or alloy will wear through at the lug tips and clasp edges.
- Water resistance: treat anything without a tested rating as splash proof. Do not swim in it.
Pitfalls
- Tier names such as first copy or master copy are sales words, not standards. Ask for specs and photos instead.
- Studio photos on dark backgrounds hide case finishing. Request daylight shots and a macro of the dial printing.
- Caseback engravings that name a movement the seller cannot confirm.
- Claims of Swiss made on a watch at this tier. Most movements are Japanese or Chinese, and that is fine if the seller says so.
- Replicas infringe trademarks, can be seized in transit, and hold no resale value. Buy with that in mind.
FAQ
Which size should I choose?
35mm suits most wrists and is the safer pick. Go 41mm if you wear larger watches and want the presence. 30mm is a small watch, closer to a dress piece.
Automatic or quartz?
Automatic if you want the sweeping seconds hand. Quartz if you want the watch to run when you pick it up after a week in a drawer.
How do I compare two sellers?
Ask both for the same set of images: straight-on dial, case flank, caseback, crown cap in macro, and a wrist shot. Identical angles make the comparison honest.
Will the crown cap work?
Ask before you pay. Threaded caps signal a higher grade copy. Decorative caps are common and are not a defect at the budget tier as long as the seller tells you which one you are getting.