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If you are shopping for a fake Rolex Explorer 2 Steve McQueen, you are shopping for a copy of reference 1655, the first Explorer II, built from 1971 to 1985. Two facts should shape your decision. The nickname has no documented link to Steve McQueen; no photograph or record connects him to the watch, and collectors adopted the name decades later. And because the 1655 was a low-production, long-discontinued model, copies of it are far less consistent than copies of a current-production Submariner. The practical advice: buy the specific watch you can see and inspect, not a quality tier a seller named in a chat message.

What the 1655 actually is

The 1655 is a 39 mm steel watch with a fixed 24-hour bezel, no rotating dive bezel, a large orange arrow hand for the 24-hour scale, and a black dial with painted luminous markers. Early examples used a Mark 1 dial with a different font and hand shape than later marks, and the case and bezel angles changed over the production run. That matters because most copy dials on the market blend details from several marks into one fantasy dial, or copy the catalog photo rather than a real watch. If a listing shows a bezel font, hand shape, and dial print that never appeared together on a genuine example, you are looking at a composite, not a replica of anything real.

What to verify on any listing

Case and bezel

Check the lug width, the crown guard shape, and whether the 24-hour bezel insert is engraved and filled or simply printed. Printed bezels fade and flake. Police the gap between bezel and case; a wide, uneven gap is the most common tell on low-tier copies.

Dial and hands

Look for a stepped or flat dial edge, marker shape, and whether the orange arrow hand sits flush at the correct height. Ask for a straight-on macro photo, not a wrist shot. Wrist shots hide print quality, and sellers know it.

Movement and feel

Ask which movement family is inside and whether the 24-hour hand jumps independently or is geared to the hour hand. On the real watch the 24-hour hand is set independently. Many cheap copies make it a decorative hand that never moves. If the seller cannot answer that question, assume it does not move.

Seller tier jargon, decoded

Terms such as first copy, mirror quality, 1:1, and AAA come from sellers, not from any standards body. There is no grading authority, no inspection regime, and no shared definition. The same phrase covers a watch with a decorated movement and a watch with a glued-on dial. Use the language only as a rough price bracket signal, then judge the individual piece on photos, measurements, and the seller's willingness to answer specific technical questions. A seller who sends fresh photos on request with a dated card is a better bet than one who forwards the same stock image to everyone.

Pitfalls to avoid

• Buying from a listing that reuses a photo of a genuine 1655 rather than the actual watch.
• Paying a premium for a name-brand movement that the seller will not identify in writing.
• Ignoring size: the 1655 is 39 mm, and a 42 mm copy will not wear like the reference.
• Assuming the orange hand is functional without confirming it.
• Skipping the import question. US Customs and Border Protection can seize counterfeit merchandise entering the country, and the shipment is your loss.
• Expecting service or parts support. Independent watchmakers often decline counterfeit movements.

Legal and resale reality

Selling counterfeit branded goods is illegal in the United States, and buying one does not give you a legitimate watch that a dealer, auction house, or insurer will touch. You cannot resell it openly, you cannot insure it as a Rolex, and you cannot get authorized service. If what you actually want is the look of the 1655 on your wrist, a non-branded homage with a real independent GMT hand costs less than a high-tier copy and carries none of those problems. Buy the copy with clear eyes, or buy the homage and keep a clean conscience and a serviceable watch.

FAQ

Did Steve McQueen wear the Explorer II?

There is no verified photo of him wearing one. The nickname is a collector convention that stuck.

Is a first copy the same as a super clone?

No. Both are seller terms with no fixed meaning, and they overlap in practice. Ask for specifications instead.

What is the biggest giveaway on a fake 1655?

A non-functioning 24-hour hand and a printed rather than engraved bezel insert.

Can I wear it to a dealer?

You can, but a trained watchmaker will identify it in seconds. Do not present it as genuine.