Quick Answer

The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition, often called the No Time to Die Seamaster, is a 42 mm grade 2 titanium dive watch with a brown tropical dial, no date window, a brown aluminum bezel insert, and a matching titanium mesh bracelet. Most fakes fail on four points: the case is polished steel instead of brushed titanium, a date window sits at 3 o'clock, the dial reads black instead of brown, and the caseback engraving is shallow or misspelled. Check those four items first, then move on to lume color, bezel action, and movement details.

Check the Case and Finish

  1. Weigh the watch in your hand. Titanium feels clearly lighter than steel at the same case size.
  2. Tilt the case under a lamp. Genuine grade 2 titanium is matte and slightly gray, while copies usually show a bright polished shine.
  3. Run a fingertip along the lug edges. Factory brushing feels even and soft, and cheap copies leave sharp burrs.
  4. Inspect the crown. It should also be titanium, with crisp engraving on the end.

Inspect the Dial and Hands

  1. Hold the watch at an angle. The 007 Edition dial is sun-brushed tropical brown, and fakes often render it flat black or orange.
  2. Confirm there is no date window at 3 o'clock. A date aperture is the fastest single tell on this reference.
  3. Check the hands for the correct skeletonized shape and a lume fill that matches the hour markers.
  4. Examine the printed text with a loupe. Genuine printing is sharp at 10x magnification, and copies look dotty or thick.

Study the Bezel and Lume

  1. Rotate the bezel. It should move in firm 120-click steps with no back play and no wobble.
  2. Align the bezel pip with the 12 o'clock marker on the dial. Misalignment is common on copies.
  3. Charge the lume with a phone light. Genuine vintage-toned lume glows pale green, while cheap copies glow bright blue or fade in minutes.

Check the Caseback and Movement

  1. Study the caseback engraving depth under a loupe. Factory engraving is deep and clean, and copies look etched or faint.
  2. Verify the reference number printed on the caseback against published specifications for the model.
  3. Ask the seller for timegrapher photos. A genuine Master Chronometer movement holds tight rate and amplitude numbers.
  4. Request the METAS certification card if the listing claims Master Chronometer status.

Look at the Bracelet and Clasp

  1. Flex the mesh bracelet. Genuine titanium mesh drapes smoothly, and copies feel stiff and sharp at the edges.
  2. Open the clasp and test the micro-adjust. Real clasps slide through distinct positions with no rattle.
  3. Read the clasp engraving. Lettering should be crisp and centered, not stamped unevenly.

Check Price and Source

  1. Compare the asking price against the current market range for the reference. A full set for a few hundred dollars is a copy, not a bargain.
  2. Ask the seller to state in writing whether the watch is genuine or a first copy.
  3. Request close-up photos of the caseback, crown, and clasp before you pay.
  4. Walk away from any listing that refuses to confirm material, movement, or origin.