A fake Omega 3320 is a replica Omega chronograph that carries, or claims to carry, a movement from the brand's 33xx calibre family. When you shop for a first copy watch, the number stamped on the caseback matters far less than four things: how the movement behaves, how the case and pushers feel, how the dial is printed, and whether the seller can describe in plain terms what they are actually shipping.
What "3320" Refers To
The number appears online in two different contexts. In one, it is an Omega calibre reference within the 33xx range of automatic chronograph movements. In the other, it is listing shorthand that replica sellers borrow to signal a high grade chronograph. Because the term gets used so loosely, a page that leads with a number and nothing else deserves caution.
Ask three questions before you decide anything. Which motion is inside? What is the case diameter in millimetres? Can the seller send photos of the movement through the display back? Sellers who cannot answer those questions are usually reselling whatever stock arrived that month.
Why the Movement Is the Hardest Part to Copy
Case work and dial work have improved a great deal in the first copy market. Movement work has not moved at the same pace. A chronograph stacks pushers, levers, a reset hammer, and a coupling mechanism on top of a base calibre, and every one of those parts has to interact with the others at the right moment. A cheap quartz module or a basic add-on chronograph layer will run, but it will not feel or behave like the genuine article.
This is why experienced buyers weight the movement heavily when they judge value. A replica with a tidy automatic chronograph calibre and a cleanly finished case is a different product from one with a stamped dial and a mushy pusher stack, even when both listings use the same model name.
Checks That Separate a Good First Copy From a Weak One
- Pusher feel. Start, stop, and reset should each give one clean, distinct click. Grinding or vagueness is a warning sign.
- Reset behavior. The chronograph seconds hand should snap back to zero without hesitation, overshoot, or a stall half a second off.
- Seconds sweep. An automatic chronograph beats several times per second, so the hand glides. A single jump per second means a quartz module.
- Dial printing. Text should stay crisp under a loupe, sit square to the markers, and show no ink blobs or double edges.
- Case finishing. Look for brushed and polished surfaces meeting on a sharp, straight break line rather than a soft smear.
- Crown and date. The crown should thread down smoothly, and the date should flip in one clean step.
- Weight and balance. A steel chronograph bracelet has a particular heft and a rattle-free clasp.
What a First Copy Can and Cannot Do
A first copy is a display and everyday wear piece, not an investment. It will not hold resale value, it cannot be serviced at an authorised Omega centre, and any water resistance claim printed on the caseback should be treated as decorative. Do not swim or shower with one. In most markets the sale of counterfeit goods is illegal, so buy with that context in mind and keep your expectations on the cosmetic side of the ledger.
A Short Buying Checklist
- Ask which movement sits inside and get an answer in plain language.
- Request a short video showing the chronograph starting, running, and resetting.
- Compare the listed case size, lug width, and thickness against the genuine reference you are matching.
- Confirm the return window and how payment is protected before you send money.
- Decide your purpose first: a display piece, a daily wearer, or a learning tool for the real thing.
The Bottom Line
A fake Omega 3320 is worth buying only when the movement, case, and dial all hold up to inspection. Ask for proof, judge the pushers as hard as you judge the dial, and treat the model number as a starting point for questions rather than a guarantee of quality.