A fake Omega 3320 is a replica of an Omega watch from the era when the brand built co-axial calibres in the 33xx family. The case, dial and bracelet can look close to the original in photos, but the movement behind the display back is the detail that gives a copy away. If you are shopping for a first copy Omega 3320, or you already own one, knowing which parts a factory can reproduce and which it cannot is the quickest way to judge what you have.
What calibre 3320 actually is
Calibre 3320 sits in Omega's 33xx group of automatic movements, the generation that combined the co-axial escapement with chronograph functions. The best known member of that family is calibre 3313, and 3320 is a close relative used in a narrower set of references. Because the numbers sit so near each other, listings often blur them together, and some sellers label any 33xx movement as a 3320. That loose labeling is one reason the phrase fake Omega 3320 turns up so often in buyer questions.
The co-axial escapement is the technical heart of these calibres. Instead of a standard lever escapement, it uses a three-level arrangement of pallet jewels that reduces sliding friction between the escape wheel and the pallets. Reproducing that geometry at scale is difficult and expensive, which is exactly why copies do not use it.
Why copies of this calibre are hard to get right
A replica maker has to imitate a movement it does not build. The result is a case that reads correctly from a metre away and internals that behave differently the moment you touch them. Points to compare:
- Movement type. Originals run Omega's co-axial architecture. Copies typically use a generic Asian chronograph, often a 7750-style or Seagull base.
- Rotor engraving. Font, spacing and depth of the calibre text and branding are usually shallow or slightly off on a copy.
- Pusher feel. Start, stop and reset on a genuine chronograph feel firm and repeatable. On copies the push is spongy or the reset snaps back unevenly.
- Subdial spacing. The distance between the registers and the centre hand stack follows the real movement layout, and copies often sit a fraction too wide or too narrow.
- Crystal and coating. Anti-reflective treatment on the original is even across the dial. Copies often show a blue or purple cast at angles.
- Case back and clasp. Engraving on the case back, the crown logo and the clasp stamp are places where cheap tooling shows up first.
How to spot a fake Omega 3320 in person
- Ask for a clear photo of the movement through the display back, then compare the calibre number and rotor text with the official reference.
- Run the chronograph several times. Stop it, restart it, reset it. A co-axial movement resets cleanly to zero; a copy may drift or stick.
- Check subdial hand alignment at the 12 o'clock position.
- Weigh the watch in your hand. A genuine steel case and bracelet carry a density that light alloy copies do not match.
- Inspect the case back engraving and serial under a loupe. Uneven depth, blurry edges or a wrong font are strong signals.
- Check the reference number against the dial and case configuration. Mixing a dial from one reference with the case of another is a common replica shortcut.
- Ask about service history or papers, and have an independent watchmaker open the case before you pay.
What a first copy Omega 3320 can and cannot do
A good first copy can deliver the look of a co-axial era Omega on the wrist: proportions, dial colour, bracelet feel and general presence. What it will not deliver is the escapement, the chronometric performance that Omega tested for, factory service support, or resale value. If those four things matter to you, a copy is a costume piece, not a substitute.
Common buyer questions
Can I tell a fake Omega 3320 from photos alone?
Sometimes. Blurry rotor text, wrong subdial spacing and a coated crystal are visible in good macro shots. The fastest test still needs the watch in hand and the chronograph running.
Will a watchmaker service a copy?
Many will not touch a counterfeit movement, and parts for a generic Chinese chronograph can be hard to source. Budget for replacement rather than repair.
Is it worth buying?
That depends on what you want. If it is the look of a 33xx era Omega for daily wear, a first copy fills that role. If it is the co-axial calibre itself, no copy will ever deliver it.
The short answer
A fake Omega 3320 can copy a case and a dial, but it cannot copy a co-axial escapement. Judge the watch by the movement you can see, the pushers you can feel and the reference data you can verify, and the difference becomes clear.