The best fake IW371736 is the automatic tier that runs a working chronograph movement and gets the twin-register dial spacing right. That version wins on the four things that decide quality for this reference: dial layout and printing, case profile and brushing, chronograph function and pusher feel, and strap and clasp quality. Cheaper copies fail at the dial first, then at the caseback engraving. This guide splits the market into three tiers, lists what each one does well and badly, and matches each to a type of buyer.
What the IW371736 is and why it gets copied
The reference belongs to the IWC Portugieser chronograph family, a line defined by a large round case, leaf-shaped hands, applied markers, a railway minute track, and two registers stacked at 12 and 6. That clean, symmetric face is exactly why the design is copied so often. There is no busy date window or tachymeter scale to hide sloppy work behind, so a lazy dial is obvious at arm's length. Buyers searching for a fake IW371736 are usually chasing the look of a dress chronograph, not the movement architecture, which is why the market splits so sharply between convincing dials on cheap movements and accurate movements on dials that miss the details.
Top pick: automatic chronograph tier
This is the version worth your money. It uses a modified Valjoux-style 7750 base with a chronograph module built to mimic the sub-dial placement, so the registers actually sit where they should and the pushers have a firm, stepped engagement instead of a soft mush.
Pros
- Working chronograph with start, stop, and reset that behaves like a mechanical watch should
- Correct register positions at 12 and 6, which is the single most visible tell on this reference
- Applied markers with real height and polished edges rather than printed dots
- Case brushing and polishing lines that follow the original contours on the lugs
- Sapphire or good mineral crystal with a proper anti-reflective tint
Cons
- Thicker than the genuine case because of the movement base
- Heavier rotor noise on the wrist
- Service and parts support is limited, so treat it as a disposable movement
- Costs meaningfully more than the entry tiers
Use case: buy this tier if you wear the watch regularly, care about the dial reading correctly in photos, and want a chronograph that functions rather than one with frozen pushers.
Middle tier: quartz-driven first copy
These use a quartz chronograph movement, which keeps the case thinner and the price lower. Dial quality varies widely. Some are surprisingly good on printing and hand shape while others use flat sub-dials that sit too deep.
Pros
- Thinner case profile than the automatic tier in many examples
- Accurate timekeeping with almost no maintenance
- Lower cost, so damage or loss stings less
- Chronograph seconds usually sweep in crisp one-second jumps
Cons
- Sub-dial hands often step once per second, an instant giveaway
- Pusher feel is clicky and hollow
- Caseback depth and engraving are usually shallow
- Dial printing can be flat under direct light
Use case: a reasonable pick for occasional wear, a costume or shoot, or a first purchase before committing to the automatic tier.
Entry tier: decorative copy
The cheapest versions look acceptable in a listing photo and fall apart in person. Sub-dials are often printed on the dial surface instead of recessed, and the hands are stamped rather than cut.
Pros
- Lowest cost by a wide margin
- Light on the wrist
- Fine as a placeholder if you only need the silhouette
Cons
- Registers positioned incorrectly, the clearest tell on a Portugieser dial
- Sharp lug edges and uneven brushing
- Non-functioning pushers or a chronograph that resets to the wrong zero
- Strap and clasp that crack or loosen within weeks
Use case: skip it unless the watch is a prop. It reads as a copy at close range, which defeats the point of buying a first copy.
Criterion: dial and register layout
Check the vertical alignment of the two registers against the center pinion, the thickness of the railway track, and whether the markers are applied with visible facets. Look at the printing under a phone light at an angle. Crisp edges hold. Fuzzy edges bleed.
- Strong: recessed sub-dials, applied indices, sharp printing, correct hand shape and length
- Weak: flat printed registers, thick printing, hands that stop short of the track
Criterion: case and finishing
Run a fingernail along the lug edges. A good copy has a soft, even break between the brushed top and polished side. A bad one feels like a cut. Check the crown for wobble and the pushers for lateral play.
- Strong: consistent brushing direction, even caseback engraving depth, snug crown
- Weak: sharp lug edges, mismatched polish, loose crown tube
Criterion: strap, clasp, and hardware
Most first copies ship with a stiff strap that hides how good the case actually is. Budget for a replacement in leather or a mesh band. A better strap changes the perceived quality of the watch more than any other single upgrade.
Quick buying checklist
- Confirm the sub-dials sit at 12 and 6, not spread wider.
- Ask for a video of the chronograph starting, stopping, and resetting to zero.
- Request a close-up of the dial at an angle to judge printing and marker height.
- Check the caseback engraving depth and text alignment.
- Confirm the crystal has an anti-reflective coating, not just clarity.
- Ask the seller what happens if the movement arrives dead.
Legal and practical note
Counterfeit branded watches are illegal to sell in the United States and shipments can be seized at customs, so understand the risk before ordering. Genuine-spec parts are not available for these movements, which means any repair is a swap rather than a restoration. Buy from a seller with a clear return window, and keep the transaction record.