The top pick for separating a fake IW323797 from the real thing is a movement and caseback cross-check, followed by dial print, case finishing, and bracelet fit. Those four points decide whether the watch in front of you is a genuine IWC or a replica dressed up as one, and whether that replica is a high-grade first copy or a cheap imitation. This reference is not among the most heavily copied IWC models, which works in your favor: fewer workshops tool up for it, so the copies that exist tend to sit at either end of the scale, very good or very bad, with little in the middle.

Confirm the reference before you judge the watch

Pull the IW323797 listing on IWC's own site or a reputable dealer page and write down the case diameter, dial layout, movement family, bracelet type, and water resistance rating. Then compare the watch to that list. A large share of "is this fake" questions end here, because the watch does not match the reference at all: wrong case size, wrong subdial count, wrong bezel, wrong date position. No amount of good finishing saves a watch that is the wrong shape for the number stamped on its back.

Movement and caseback

The caseback and the movement are where copies give themselves away, because they are the hardest parts to reproduce at cost.

• Rotor engraving: check the depth, the font, and the spacing of the lettering. Shallow, laser-etched text with soft edges is the norm on low-grade copies.
• Serial and case numbers: they should be two different numbers, cleanly struck, and consistent between the caseback and the movement.
• Finishing under the rotor: genuine movements show even perlage or striping. Cheap copies show tool marks, uneven plating, and screws with chewed slots.
• Winding and rotor noise: a gritty, rattling wind or a rotor that scrapes is a warning sign, though a quiet movement alone proves nothing.
• Service access: a watchmaker who can source parts for the reference is a better judge than any photo comparison.

Dial, hands, and crystal

Dial work is where mid-tier copies fail most often, because printing and applied markers are visible at arm's length.

• Print weight: brand text and scale markings should be crisp with consistent stroke width. Copies show thick, bleeding, or uneven print.
• Applied indices: they should sit flat, align to the dial center, and show polished edges with a clean lume fill.
• Date wheel: check the font and the alignment inside the window. Off-center or oversized numerals are common.
• Hands: look for correct lengths, a proper sweep, and lume that matches the dial in color and texture.
• Crystal: reflections should be muted by coating on the genuine piece. A plain, mirror-bright sapphire with heavy glare is a clue.

Case, crown, and finishing

• Transition lines: brushed and polished surfaces should meet on a sharp, straight edge. Wobbly transitions come from hand polishing.
• Lug shape and hole placement: compare against reference photos at the same angle, not from memory.
• Crown: the engraving should be deep and centered, and the crown should seat flush against the case.
• Weight and balance: a case that feels light or hollow for its size does not match a steel IWC of this class.

Bracelet and clasp

• End-link fit: gaps between the first link and the case are the most photographed flaw on copies.
• Clasp engraving: depth and font should match the caseback lettering style.
• Link hardware: screws should turn cleanly and sit flush. Pins that will not push out, or screws with soft heads, point to a copy.
• Stretch and rattle: a new bracelet should not rattle, and a used one should not flop.

Box, papers, and serial consistency

Paperwork is easy to forge and easy to over-trust. Treat a full set as a supporting detail, not proof. The stronger test is whether the serial on the caseback, the movement, and any card agree, and whether the reference on the paperwork is actually the reference on the watch. A mismatched set is worth less than a bare watch with a clean story.

Judging a first copy on its own terms

If the watch is being sold openly as a first copy, the question changes from "is this genuine" to "is this a good copy." Score it on the same four criteria, but judge it against the price and the purpose instead of against IWC's standards.

What a good first copy gets right

• Case proportions and wrist presence that match the reference closely.
• Clean dial print and aligned markers at normal viewing distance.
• A bracelet that fits without gaps and clasps securely.
• A movement that winds smoothly and keeps reasonable time, even if it is not the genuine caliber.

What no first copy fixes

• Resale value: a copy has none beyond what another buyer will pay for the look.
• Service support: branded service centers will not touch it, so you rely on independent watchmakers.
• Water resistance: ratings claimed on a copy are claims, not guarantees.
• Materials: plating, lume, and gasket quality sit below the genuine article.

Who should buy what

Buy the genuine IW323797 if you plan to keep the watch for years, want it serviced by the brand, or care about resale. Buy a first copy if you want the look on the wrist for daily wear, you accept that it will not hold value, and you buy from a seller who states plainly that it is a replica. Walk away from any seller who mixes the two stories, calls a copy genuine, or refuses to show the movement and the caseback numbers. That single refusal tells you more than an hour of photo comparison.