The practical pick for most buyers is a first copy Blancpain 5050-1130-52A with a ceramic-finish case and a running automatic chronograph movement, because that is the only tier where the pushers, subdials and bezel behave the way the reference does in daily use. The criteria used here are the ones that separate a wearable copy from a display piece: case material and finishing, bezel insert and lume pip, dial layout and subdial spacing, movement base and chronograph function, water resistance claim, and strap hardware.
What the reference 5050-1130-52A describes
Blancpain builds its modern references from three parts: a family number, a material code and a strap code. The 5050 family is the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Flyback Chronograph, the 1130 code marks the black ceramic case version, and the trailing suffix identifies the strap fitted at the factory, in this case a fabric or rubber style. Blancpain publishes the official case size, movement and materials for the reference on its own site, so start from that spec sheet rather than a marketplace listing title. A copy that misses the case diameter by a millimeter will also miss the lug-to-lug span, and that is what you feel on the wrist.
Tier one: ceramic-finish case with automatic chronograph
This is the version worth paying for. The case is built to mimic the matte black ceramic of the original, with a sapphire crystal, a rotating bezel, and an automatic chronograph movement driving three registers. Pushers on this tier usually start, stop and reset with a defined click.
Pros
- Subdial positions sit close to the original layout, so the dial reads correctly at a glance.
- Ceramic-style finishing hides scratches better than polished steel in the same price band.
- Automatic movement means no battery hatch and a smoother sweep on the running seconds.
- Sapphire crystal resists the scuffs that plastic and mineral glass collect within weeks.
Cons
- Heavier and thicker than the genuine article, mostly because of the movement fitted inside.
- Ceramic-look coatings can chip at the lug edges after a hard knock, and chips do not polish out.
- Costs more than the other tiers, so inspect photos of the actual unit before buying.
Choose this tier if you want one watch to wear several days a week and you care that the chronograph actually works.
Tier two: steel or PVD case, automatic, no flyback
A steel or black-coated case with a plain automatic movement and working chronograph functions. The proportions are usually close, the weight feels more like a normal dive watch, and the price sits below tier one.
Pros
- Steel cases can be refinished if they pick up scratches.
- Lighter on the wrist over a full day.
- Wider availability in different strap options.
Cons
- Black PVD coating wears through at the crown guards and caseback rim with regular use.
- Bezel action is often looser, with more backplay than the ceramic tier.
- Dial printing and hand finishing are usually a step behind.
This is the sensible choice if you rotate several watches and want the look without the heavier spend.
Tier three: quartz or decorative chronograph
Quartz versions keep accurate time and cost the least, but the chronograph is often decorative, meaning the pushers move the hands without a real timing mechanism behind them. Subdials may be printed rather than functional. If the listing cannot tell you what the subdials do, assume they do nothing. This tier suits occasional wear, costume use or a gift where the watch will spend most of its life in a drawer.
Inspection checklist before you pay
- Ask for photos of the exact unit, not catalog renders, including the caseback and crown.
- Check the lume pip at 12 on the bezel. It should sit centered and flush, not off to one side.
- Compare subdial spacing to the official dial photo. Crowded or overlapping registers are the clearest tell.
- Confirm the date window position and that the aperture is square, not a rough cut.
- Look at the strap stitching and buckle finish. Hardware quality tracks closely with overall build.
- Ask for a short video of the chronograph starting, stopping and resetting to zero.
- Get the water resistance figure in writing. Many copies are splash resistant only.
Water resistance and daily wear
Genuine dive watches are tested against published standards for pressure resistance, while copies are not certified to anything. Treat any copy as splash resistant unless the seller states a tested rating and stands behind it. Rinse the case with fresh water after contact with salt or chlorine, and never operate the pushers or crown while the watch is wet.
Legal and shipping reality
Counterfeit goods face import restrictions in many countries, and shipments can be seized. Customs rules differ by destination, so understand what applies where you live before ordering, and keep expectations realistic about delivery times for watches that cross borders.
Which version to choose
Buy tier one if the chronograph needs to work and you want the closest match to the reference in proportion, finish and weight. Buy tier two if you want a lighter daily wearer and can accept a coating that will age. Buy tier three only for occasional use. In every case, judge the seller by the photos and video they provide of the actual watch, because the reference number on a listing says nothing about the watch in the box.