Quick answer
A fake Ballon Bleu sold as "white gold" is almost never 18k white gold. Most replicas use 316L stainless steel with rhodium or chrome plating. Some use brass or zinc alloy with plating. A small number use real 18k white gold cases, and those cost several thousand dollars. Cartier built the Ballon Bleu in 18k white gold, 18k yellow gold, 18k rose gold, and steel. The white gold versions retail in the five-figure range.
What the real white gold Ballon Bleu is
Cartier launched the Ballon Bleu de Cartier in 2007. The case is a rounded balloon shape. The crown sits inside a curved guard and carries a blue cabochon. White gold cases are 18k gold, stamped 750, and rhodium plated to give a silver color. Case sizes include 28 mm, 33 mm, 36 mm, 40 mm, and 42 mm. Movements are automatic. Recent models use Cartier Calibre 1847 MC. Older models use ETA-based calibres.
How to check white gold against steel
- Weight. An 18k gold case has a density near 15.5 g/cm3. Steel is near 7.9 g/cm3. A gold case feels about twice as heavy as a steel case of the same size.
- Hallmarks. Real pieces show 750 or Au750, the Cartier maker's mark, and Swiss assay marks. Replicas carry no stamp or a shallow laser etch.
- Color. Rhodium-plated white gold and rhodium-plated steel look the same at arm's length. Color alone does not separate them.
- Wear. Plated base metal shows yellow or grey patches where the coating rubs off, most often on the caseback and crown guard edges.
Movement and dial checks
Genuine Ballon Bleu automatics run at 28,800 vibrations per hour, or 4 Hz. The seconds hand sweeps. Many fakes use quartz, so the seconds hand ticks once per second. Others use Chinese automatics at 21,600 vph. The rotor of a genuine watch has Cartier engraving and a jewel count. Fakes often have a plain rotor or a sticker.
Price ranges
- Replica with plated steel case: $80 to $600.
- Replica with a solid gold case: several thousand dollars. Few sellers offer one.
- Genuine 18k white gold Ballon Bleu: five figures. Price depends on size, diamonds, and strap.
What is unknown
Sellers seldom publish the alloy of replica cases. Terms such as "white gold plated" and "gold tone" have no standard meaning. Ask for a hallmark photo and a weight in grams before buying. A seller who provides neither does not have a gold case.