A fake Baignoire Allongée is a replica of the Cartier Baignoire Allongée, the stretched oval dress watch that Cartier traces back to its early 1900s case designs. Fakes copy the tub-shaped case and Roman numeral dial. The real differences sit in the case curve, the crown cabochon, the dial print, and the movement inside.
The name trips up buyers. "Baignoire" is French for bathtub, and "allongée" means elongated. The watch is not a bathtub, but the case profile does look like one.
What Is the Baignoire Allongée?
Cartier's own history dates the Baignoire shape to 1912, with the Baignoire name arriving decades later. The Allongée version stretches that oval, so the case runs longer and thinner than the standard model.
- Case: oval with one unbroken curve, no straight side walls on the Allongée.
- Dial: Roman numerals, railway minute track, sword hands in blue or polished steel.
- Crown: a ridged crown set with a blue cabochon.
- Strap: leather on most references, a metal bracelet on others.
Fake vs First Copy vs Counterfeit
Three words get used as if they mean the same thing. They do not.
- First copy: a high-grade replica built to match the look, weight, and finish of the original, sold openly as a replica.
- Fake: any watch that copies another brand's design, from $30 street models to $600 replicas.
- Counterfeit: a watch with a copied brand mark sold as if it were genuine. US law treats selling these as illegal.
How Do You Spot a Fake Baignoire Allongée?
Start with the case profile. A real Baignoire Allongée has one smooth curve from lug to lug. Cheap fakes show flat spots or a kink where the case meets the lugs.
- Case curve. Run a fingernail along the side. A genuine case feels smooth; a fake has a seam or a ridge.
- Crown cabochon. Real ones use a domed blue spinel or sapphire. Fakes use flat glass or plastic that reads dark.
- Dial print. Check the brand lettering, the "Swiss Made" line, and the spacing between Roman numerals. Fakes blur thin strokes.
- Hidden signature. Cartier hides its name inside a numeral, often the VII or the X. A fake leaves it out or paints it in the wrong spot.
- Hands. Sword hands should reach the minute track with a clean tip. Fakes run short or look stamped.
- Caseback. Engravings should sit deep and crisp, with a reference and serial number. Shallow laser marks point to a fake.
- Weight. Steel and gold cases carry heft. A hollow-feeling case points to a brass core under plating.
What Movement Sits Inside?
Some Cartier Baignoire models run quartz, so a ticking second hand is not proof of a fake on this line. Mechanical versions use hand-wound or automatic calibers with signed rotors and finished bridges.
Open the caseback only if you know the reference. A jeweler can time the movement and check the jewel count against the maker's spec sheet.
What Do Fake Baignoire Allongée Watches Cost?
- Street-level fake: $30 to $120. Plated brass, quartz, glued dial markers.
- Mid-tier replica: $120 to $300. Better case shape, basic automatic or quartz movement.
- First copy: $250 to $700. Closer case curve, sapphire crystal, signed crown, finished movement.
- Genuine Baignoire Allongée: several thousand dollars and up, with gold references running higher on the secondary market.
What Drives the Price Gap?
Case material, movement type, and dial work carry most of the cost. Diamond-set bezels and gold cases push genuine prices up. On replicas, the gap comes down to case machining and how the dial is printed.
Does a Fake Baignoire Allongée Keep Time?
A quartz fake keeps time as well as any quartz watch until the battery dies or moisture gets in. Automatic fakes from low-tier factories drift, stop, and run fast when the rotor winds down.
Water resistance is the weak point. Many fakes carry a rating printed on the back that the case gaskets cannot back up. Keep them away from pools and showers.
Can a Jeweler Tell the Difference?
Yes, in under a minute in most cases. A trained eye checks the case profile, the dial print under a loupe, and the crown cabochon first.
The gap narrows on high-grade first copies. A watchmaker who opens the case will still find differences in movement finishing, rotor engraving, and caseback font.
Buying Checklist for First Copy Buyers
- Ask for photos of the case side, crown, and caseback at high resolution.
- Confirm the crystal type. Sapphire should not scratch with a fingernail test.
- Ask which movement is fitted and whether it has been serviced.
- Check the return window and warranty in writing.
- Compare listed dimensions against the maker's spec for the reference you want.
How Does the Allongée Wear on the Wrist?
The Baignoire Allongée case runs narrow, so it wears wider on the wrist than the numbers suggest. Measure your wrist and compare it against the listed case length before you commit to a size.
Is Buying a Fake Baignoire Allongée Legal?
Owning a replica is not the issue in the US. Selling a watch with a counterfeit brand mark as genuine is illegal, and US Customs can seize shipments of counterfeit goods.
Buy from sellers who describe the watch as a replica or first copy, not as an original Cartier. That single detail decides whether you are buying a replica or a counterfeit.
Quick Answers
Is a fake Baignoire Allongée worth buying?
It depends on what you want. A first copy gives you the case shape and dial look for a fraction of the price. It will not hold value, and service options are limited.
Do fakes use sapphire crystal?
Low-tier fakes use mineral glass that scratches. First copies often use sapphire, which stays clear and resists scratches.
Can I get a fake repaired?
Most watchmakers will service a generic automatic or quartz movement. Few will touch a counterfeit caseback engraving or source brand-marked parts.